Sizes to verify
- 1.75u right Shift (the usual 75% catch)
- 1u right-column keys beside the arrows
- Standard bottom row, so spacebar and modifiers are easy
What owners usually do
The F75's stock caps are decent for the price, so the common upgrade path is a themed double-shot PBT set in Cherry or OEM profile. The board's sound signature (gasket mount, foam-filled) pairs well with thicker PBT; it deepens the already-thocky stock tone.
Compatibility caveat
None of the F75's charm depends on proprietary parts: switches are hot-swap MX (3/5-pin) and caps are standard. That makes it one of the safest budget boards to customize; nothing you buy for it becomes stranded if you upgrade the board later.
A sensible upgrade order for this board
The F75's reputation comes from how little it needs out of the box, which changes the usual upgrade math. Owner threads converge on this order: live with it stock for a few weeks first, since the gasket mount and foam do most of the acoustic work already; swap keycaps when you want a look or a slightly deeper sound, with thick PBT in a lower profile keeping the stock character; and only then consider switches, because the sockets accept any 3-pin or 5-pin MX switch whenever curiosity strikes. Buying caps and switches together on day one is the common overspend; many of those buyers later say the stock setup was already most of the way there.
What a cap swap will not fix
- Stabilizer rattle. If the spacebar or Enter sounds tinny, that is the stabilizers, not the caps; new caps carry the same rattle over.
- A switch you dislike. Caps change texture and tone at the fingertip, but weight and bump come from the switch underneath; the hot-swap sockets are the fix there.
- Wobble. Keycap wobble on this board is mostly stem and switch tolerance; a premium cap set reduces it only slightly.
- Backlight legibility, unless you specifically buy shine-through or pudding caps; opaque PBT dims the legends to silhouettes.
Long-term notes from owners
Because everything on the F75 is standard, longevity is about the parts, not the platform. Caps outlive the board if they are dye-sub or doubleshot; printed or coated legends on cheaper themed sets can wear at the WASD cluster within a year of heavy gaming, so check the legend construction when a set is suspiciously cheap. Wash caps in lukewarm soapy water, never solvents, and let them dry a full day before refitting; moisture trapped in a stem sits against the switch. And keep the stock set. Boards in this bracket resell casually and often, and a complete original kit, caps included, is what keeps a used listing credible.